Samurai 18oz S140SXJ-GRK "Goryokaku" Denim (Slim Tapered Fit)

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Inspired by the legendary battles of feudal Japan!

Samurai have been inspired by another legendary episode in Japanese history to bring us truly unique denim that is loaded with details! This pair takes its name from the 'Shinsengumi,' an elite military police force that defended Kyoto and fought warring factions in feudal Japan. The battle of Goryokaku marked the end of the bloody war and ushered in the imperial Meiji era.

Constructed with Samurai's 18oz 'Makoto' denim, this fabric has an ultra slubby and neppy texture! The irregular texture is created through a slow weaving process on vintage shuttle looms. The outer warp yarns have been grand-indigo dyed, while the undyed white weft yarns can be seen poking through the surface to create a truly unique look and feel! With time this is sure to age to an amazing look, with plenty of vertical rain-drop fading!

Construction-wise, it is inspired by vintage Lee 101 Jeans and mixed with plenty of amazing details. For the fly, Samurai have chosen a variety of different buttons to represent the battle of Goryokaku. The top gold-plated button represents the rising sun and the dawning of the new imperial era, the middle three 'Sakura' silver buttons represent the cherry blossom trees that the Goryokaku region is known for, while the natural iron 'Taiko' button represents Toshizo Hizakata, deputy leader of the Shinsengumi who is said to be buried under a Sakura tree at the site of the battle.

Lastly, the striking three-coloured selvedge I.D, which has also been used on the coin pocket and fly construction, has been chosen to represent the colours of the Shinsengumi uniform!

If you are looking for a pair of ultra-slubby denim with plenty of details inspired by Japanese history, this could be a perfect choice!

  • 100% Cotton
  • Japanese 18oz White, blue & red colours mixed 'Makoto' selvage ID vertical irregular textured denim (specially developed by Samurai)
  • Grand indigo dyed
  • 22K gold plated iron major button
  • Hidden copper pocket rivets
  • Raised belt loops
  • Japanese heavyweight jacquard knitted inner pockets
  • Heavyweight vegetable tanned cowhide leather patch
  • Tonal coloured arc stitching
  • Once washed (minimal shrinkage)
  • Mid-low rise/Slim Tapered fit
  • Made In Japan

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How We Measure

Pants and Shorts


With the major buttoned up (i.e. the top button) open the jeans and lay them flat, like shown. Measure from the front where the major button closes to the back belt loop. Double this measurement to find the waist measurement.

The way we measure the waist is different from the 'Side to Side' technique. If you are used to the 'side to side' technique you can roughly roughly downsize by 1 inch.

For example, 'side to side' measurement for The Flat Head 3002 waist is 28inch and using our method measures at 29.25inch.

Front Rise:

With the jeans lying flat measure from the crotch bar tack to the top of the waistband. 

Back Rise:

Spread out the crotch so the bar tack is visible, then measure from the crotch to the top of the waistband.


One inch down from the crotch, measure flat across to the other side.


Flatten the leg and measure along the inseam from the crotch to the leg hem. 

Leg Openning:

Measure straight across the hem from side to side.





Lay flat then measure from the shoulder's edge to the other shoulder's edge.


Lay shirt flat and measure from pit to pit.

Sleeve length:

With the sleeve flat measure from the shoulder to the cuff.

Arm hole openning:

Measure from the shoulder down to the pitt.

Vertical length:

With the shirt facing down, Measure from below the collar to the bottom hem.