Pure Blue Japan 13oz BRK-019-BK Broken Twill Denim (Relax Tapered Fit)

Size Guide
When talking about the softest of denim, typically people think about the kinds of cotton... but there's so much more to explore! PBJ has brought us into their world of broken twills!

For this new series, PBJ has used vintage weaving machines to create a slowly woven broken twill texture that has an incredibly soft feeling but still with a strong vertical texture. This version proves once again that PBJ's are masters of innovative indigo-dyeing techniques! The warp has first been indigo thread-dyed, then black sulphur overdyed, while the weft is dyed with silver-grey, resulting in a colourway with a rich combination of black, indigo and silver tones! Looking closely, you can see the broken twill zig tagging texture. No doubt, these will reveal some of the most amazing fades with time, resulting in a high contrasted look of black, silver, indigo and white hues!

With vintage machine chain stitch and roped belt loop construction, these are built to get better with time. The riveted back pockets will also keep things secure for many years to come! The high-density veg-tanned deerskin patch will gradually soften with a rich patina like some black gemstone. The black coated buttons make for a tonal look and will eventually reveal an iron core for more character.

This fit is great for those who like a tapered look but prefer a slightly higher rise with a more accommodating waist and thigh section.

If you're keen to try something unique in terms of texture and black indigo dying, this is the ultimate all-season pair!

  • 100% Cotton
  • Japanese 13oz blue selvage ID broken twill denim
  • Grand indigo yarn-dyed then black Sumi sulphur overdyed warp X Silver grey sulphur dyed weft
  • Vegetable-tanned deerskin leather patch
  • Copper buttons & pocket rivets
  • Hidden back rivets
  • Roped belt loops
  • PBJ "Leaf" Logo is embroidered on the left back pocket
  • High rise/ Relax Tapered fit
  • Made In Japan

The denim is unsanforized which will shrink 4~8% with washes:

Cold Soak: 0.75'' in the waist; 1.25'' in the inseam
Warm Soak/Cold Machine Wash: 1.25'' in the waist; 1.75'' in the inseam
Warm Machine Wash: 1.75'' in the waist; 2.5'' in the inseam

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How We Measure

Pants and Shorts


With the major buttoned up (i.e. the top button) open the jeans and lay them flat, like shown. Measure from the front where the major button closes to the back belt loop. Double this measurement to find the waist measurement.

The way we measure the waist is different from the 'Side to Side' technique. If you are used to the 'side to side' technique you can roughly roughly downsize by 1 inch.

For example, 'side to side' measurement for The Flat Head 3002 waist is 28inch and using our method measures at 29.25inch.

Front Rise:

With the jeans lying flat measure from the crotch bar tack to the top of the waistband. 

Back Rise:

Spread out the crotch so the bar tack is visible, then measure from the crotch to the top of the waistband.


One inch down from the crotch, measure flat across to the other side.


Flatten the leg and measure along the inseam from the crotch to the leg hem. 

Leg Openning:

Measure straight across the hem from side to side.





Lay flat then measure from the shoulder's edge to the other shoulder's edge.


Lay shirt flat and measure from pit to pit.

Sleeve length:

With the sleeve flat measure from the shoulder to the cuff.

Arm hole openning:

Measure from the shoulder down to the pitt.

Vertical length:

With the shirt facing down, Measure from below the collar to the bottom hem.